Chewed door knobs?

In the vet hospital that I worked at all the door handles bore the marks of another great escape. Curious, I asked the head vet and owner why all the handles were chewed. This is the story she related to me. The vet got here one morning to find a dog loose in the front room and gnawing away at the front door. There were no clips on the door latches of the runs at that time to hold them securely in place. The dog had jumped at the gate in the middle of the night and popped the latch up and open. He then started on the kennel door and chewed the knob of the door until it was no longer smooth and could be turned. He then grasped it with his teeth turned the knob and pulled. When through that door he then picked another and started chewing again. Door by door he made his way out to the front room. I guess he figured he was going to find his master and go home. Then when no master appeared in the front room he worked on the front door. If the head vet hadn't arrived when she did who knows how long it would have taken the dog to figure out the front deadbolt.

Roxy the Great Dane

Jumping escapes are common enough and I’ve heard many other stories from different vet offices that have these stories; it’s a hazard of kennels everywhere. There have been some creative breakouts though. Another dog that escaped the kennel was Roxy the Great Dane. Roxy thankfully had a home and was just there for routine work. There was no problems taking her to the kennel and she promptly lay down and relaxed on the blanket provided. There was another dog in the kennel beside her that contained a dog at the time that was having some back problems and the animal had to be hospitalized for a time. The owner of this dog came that day to visit and I showed her in. I had to do something up front and was gone out of the kennel for about 2 minutes, in this time frame Roxy decided she’d had enough of the cramped quarters and it was time to go. When I walked back into the kennel she was sitting quietly in a far corner looking extremely pleased with herself and for the entire world like she was saying “think camouflage”. Needless to say, it’s not difficult to spot a 175 lb Great Dane relaxing where there isn’t any kennels. Taking her collar in hand I walked around the corner. The visiting woman was petting her dog and she looked up at me with an amused expression. Lying between the runs and the wall was the door of the kennel. The latch and clip hung mockingly, securing nothing. The client had been petting her dog and talking with him, when all of a sudden there was a crash and Roxy came trotting on past. She had simply pried her paws under the kennel door and used them as levers to lift the entire gate off its hinges. We had to bring in the tools and reverse one of the hinges to keep her in.

Vaccination requirements - goat kids

The only universally recommended vaccination for goat kids is CD+T. Clostridium perfringins types C and D and tetanus, caused by Clostridium tetani. Does should be vaccinated 2 to 4 weeks prior to parturition in order to pass immunity onto their offspring through colostrum. Females giving birth for the first time should be vaccinated twice in late pregnancy, about four weeks apart. Antibodies received from the colostrum will protect kids for about two months, if offspring have ingested adequate colostrum. If kids do not get a good amount of colostrum (drink from mother only once or not at all) they should be given same vaccination schedule as below for kids with unvaccinated mothers. Kids should receive their first CD-T vaccination when they are 6 to 8 weeks old, followed by a booster 2 to 4 weeks later (some resources say that a second booster (three total shots) should be given 4 weeks later).

Kids whose dams were not vaccinated for C and D can be vaccinated with some success at two to three days of age and again in two weeks. However, later vaccinations will be more successful since colostral antibodies interfere with vaccinations at very young ages. A better alternative may be to vaccinate offspring from non-vaccinated dams at 1 to 3 weeks, with a booster 3 to 4 weeks later. Anti-toxins can be kept on hand for immediate short-term immunity if dams were not vaccinated or in the event of disease outbreak or vaccine failure. Kids whose dams were not vaccinated for tetanus should be given the tetanus anti-toxin at the time of docking, castrating, and disbudding, especially if elastrator bands are used. Rams, bucks, and does should be boostered annually with CD-T. Does should always have their vaccinations 4-6 weeks prior to kidding. Three way vaccines (just CD+T) are recommended over eight way (contains blackleg and other diseases) since they may cause more of an immune response and bad reactions and it is unlikely that the goats will be infected with the other diseases to which the vaccine provides immunity.

Vaccine instructions should always be followed and I do not recommend giving IM vaccines SQ or vice versa, several people believe that there are no adverse reactions to doing this and do practice this way. I believe that there are reasons behind the methods of injection and they should be given according to the instructions to prevent any adverse reactions.

Other recommended shots:
Bo-se: 1/4 cc to all newborn kids, recommended if your area is selenium deficient. See image map provided.

Other vaccinations available:
Pneumonia - Pasteurella Multocida, Mannheimia haemolytica: Vaccination currently on market causes temporary limping in goats. Vaccinate adults with two doses 4 weeks apart. Kids vaccinated at under three months of age should be revaccinated at 4-6 months.

Caseous Lymphadenitis (CL) : Some goat producers use sheep vaccine containing this bacterin to vaccinate goats. It has been known to cause adverse reactions however and is not recommended by the FDA for goat use.

Chlamydia and Campylobacter Antigen - Recommended for areas where disease is common in goats. If needed vaccinate does one month prior to breeding. Used "off label" for goats and appears somewhat affective. Side effects include: Muscle soreness and stiffness, can cause abortion if vaccinated during first 28-45 days of pregnancy.

Leptospirosis Bacterin: Recommended for areas where the disease is common in goats.Vaccinate one month prior to breeding

Sore mouth (Contagious Ecthyma): not recommended unless herd already has soremouth present. Live vaccine will give animals soremouth at time of herd owners choosing. Caution should be used when giving this vaccine. Do not use in newborn kids or sick goats.

Foot rot: Recommended only in wet/swampy areas and in conjunction to other preventative measures to avoid footrot. Can be used with culling, foot trimming, foot soaking etc. to REDUCE the incidence of foot rot, does not prevent

Rabies: Risk is minimal to sheep and goats but vaccine could be recommended in areas with a high potential for spread of disease such as wooded areas that contain lots of racoons, skunks, foxes, or other carriers. No rabies vaccine is currently licensed for goats.


Chart for kid treatments, including wormings

Hair loss - goats ears

Goat mange can be caused by a skin mite similar to the ones described in a previous post. The hair loss tends to be on the ears first and can also cause hair loss around the eyes and nose. It is mostly on the head. Can be identified using the methods for skin scraping described below or taking your animal to the vet for a skin scraping or exam. The mite will cause itching and some inflammation and the animal will probably scratch a lot. The same goes for ear mites. Here is an excerpt I found in the Merck vet manual on demodectic mange in goats "Demodectic Mange: This has been reported in sheep ( Demodex ovis ) and goats ( D caprae ), in which it causes lesions similar to those in cattle. In goats, nonpruritic papules and nodules develop, especially over the face, neck, shoulders, and sides. The nodules contain a thick, waxy, grayish material that can be easily expressed; mites can be found in this exudate. The disease can become chronic. Localized lesions in goats can be incised, expressed, and infused with Lugol’s iodine or rotenone in alcohol (1:3). For generalized cases in goats, treatments include ronnel in propylene glycol (180 mL of 33% ronnel in 1 L of propylene glycol) applied to one-third of the body daily until cured, and rotenone in alcohol (1:3) applied to one-fourth of the body daily. Trichlorfon (2%) has been reported to be effective for demodicosis in sheep."

Some info on mites and bacterial skin infection in goats and treatment

More information on Mites Page 30

Also found more information here: Page 211

Also goats can be infected with Psoroptes Cuniculi which is the ear mite of rabbits. This can affect goats ears and can spread. You can diagnose these with a microscope in accordance to the methods described in a previous post or may be able to see these within the external ear canal using a magnifying glass. There is no evidence which supports cross-contamination of these in goats. In other words, you can have one affected but not all.

Link to treatment recommended for ear mites in goats. You can also pick this up at some feed stores.

A less likely possibility is lice. Several species of lice infest goats and separate species may occur on different species of goats. Two species of blood-sucking lice are found on goats; the goat-sucking louse and the African goat louse. These species are similar in appearance and are bluish-gray.

There are three species of chewing or biting lice parasites on goats. Bovicola crassipes (Rudow), a large yellow louse, and the Angora goat biting louse are normally found on Angora goats. The goat biting louse, Bovicola caprae (Guret) is commonly found on meat goats.

The presence of lice on goats is accompanied by scratching and rubbing. The effect depends on the number of lice present. Blood-feeding lice cause the most severe symptoms. Excessive feeding causes scabby, bleeding areas that may lead to bacterial infection.

There are also Vitamin deficiencies that can result in hair loss.

The funny thing about animal work...

The funny thing about the animal profession is that you can’t ever predict the things that are possible and will happen. Working in the kennels even before becoming a veterinary technician taught me that. For example, you can never guarantee that a particular animal will still be in the cage that it was placed in five minutes later. There are a few that I remember specifically, the first was a boxer, about 6 years old, that was brought into the vet’s office by a rescue to be euthanized, they had saved her from a shelter and had housed her for several years. No one would ever consider adopting her, so the rescue had to make room to try and save a younger, more adoptable dog. This boxer was placed in a six foot tall run and after being secured there proceeded to follow me back into the next room. Brushing past me she raced to the door to be let outside. Puzzled I went to her and patting her placed a lead around her neck. Taking her back to the run I noticed three things: the door was closed, the latch was hooked, and the clip holding the latch was securely in place. I had indeed locked her in. There was only a foot of space between the top of the kennels and the ceiling, almost impossible for a dog of her size to squeeze through, not to mention the lack of room in the kennel to obtain a running start. Placing her back in the run I walked to the end of the hall and turned around to watch and wait. It wasn’t a long wait. Without even taking a step she jumped straight upward, grabbed into the chain link with her paws, clawed her way up the next three feet, oozed herself between the gate and ceiling, and dropped to the floor. She was thrilled. I wasn’t as happy however, all my enclosed cages that would be a comfortable size for her were full of patients and boarders. I ended up having to place her in a cramped fully enclosed kennel that we didn’t use much, these type of kennels were dark, and difficult to clean, and in order to clean them you had to be on your knees on the cold cement floor. She spent the next few hours there. I wish I could say that this brave happy dog found a home by showing her spirit but unfortunately not all stories can end with happy endings.

Make your own cat bag!

Depending on what you are having to restrain your cat for you may want to make your own cat bag. A cat bag is a device used to restrain your cat for different procedures. You will want to use the least amount of restraint possible since cats tend to see restraint as a battle of the wills and will fight harder. In other words, if you don't need a cat bag to trim your cats nails, don't use one. The size of the cat bag you need will depend on the size of your cat/s. Measure your biggest cat around his or her biggest area and add 2 inches. This will allow some room for the seams and some to get the cat in. The bag should still be snug. You will also need to measure their neck. If they are wearing a collar you may want to remove it and just measure from the latch to the hole that is being used. You will want the neck fairly tight, not tight enough to choke the cat but will want it tight enough to not allow the feline to pull their front paw through the neck. The bag's cutout will probably be bigger on one end then the other, like the picture to the right. Several zippers are advised but one will suffice. Sew a long zipper between the two edges to bring the pattern into a bag with both ends open. Sew a seam down the big end (back end) to finish the bag. The bag can be used like this, simply unzip and open the bag, set the cat on their rump and fold the bag around him/her and zip up all the way to the neck with all four legs inside. If more zippers are available you may want to make a cut in the bag towards the bottom and insert a zipper on either side of the main zipper to allow access to back paws (such as the picture shows) for claw trimming or blood draws. Front paws can be accessed by adding a hook at the neck of the bag to keep the head secure and unzipping the bag as little as possible to slip one front leg out. Then replace that leg and remove the other front leg. There are several other methods of restraining a feline as well. You can wrap the feline in a towel, which would be easier and quicker than making a cat bag; pillowcases will also work and can be redone into a cat bag quickly and easily. Just make sure you have the towel wrapped tightly or the feline may squirm out of it. You can also create a cat muzzle and essentially blinfold the cat. This can work extremley well with some felines and will give you access to all parts of the cat except the eyes and mouth at the same time. If trimming claws I would recommend trying this method first since you can lay the feline on one side and trim all 4 paws without having to readjust. A simple cat muzzle can be made by taking a paper cup and removing the bottom and tying ribbon, string, or yarn to the top of the cup on either side. To use the cup simply tie around the back of the head behind the ears. Some felines will object to this though so please be careful and if your cat objects get some help or choose a different method.

Give your own IM - intramuscular shots

Giving you own IM shots is similar to giving SQ ones. You prepare the site, There are several recommended locations as demonstrated by the picture, they are about the same on each type of animal. A lot of people recommend the rump area, I recommend the neck or front shoulder areas so that there is less of a chance of hitting the sciatic nerve. Prepare the area; restrain the animal, clip if possible, and rub with alcohol to disinfect. Horses or large animals that are not in a stanchion it is recommended to procede slightly different.

Small animals or stanchioned animals: Have needle on syringe full of injection. Grasp the area and pinch slightly to make muscle buldge upward. Insert the syringe into the prepared area at an almost 90 degree angle. You don't want to hit bone, just muscle. As always the tip of the point, or bevel, on the needle goes downward, closest to the animal. Once needle is inserted, release your grasp, then withdraw on the plunger to ensure proper placement. Plunger should withdraw easily and should not withdraw blood. If placement is correct push plunger all the way down, injecting the fluid in the syringe. Withdraw needle and syringe and wipe area with alcohol again if animal will permit.

Large animal: Detach needle from syringe and place needle quickly into prepared area. When animal is calm and still attach syringe without removing needle and proceed as above. You still need to ensure that the needle is in the right place by withdrawing on the plunger of the syringe, if it withdraws easily, proceed. If you've hit a blood vessel blood will be coming out of the needle before you attached the syringe.